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Never have I felt closer to nature and the universe than in Costa Rica. I flew into San Jose and was greeted by what I could only assume were some long-lost relatives. The “ticos”, as the Costa Ricans are called, make you feel like part of the family as soon as you arrive and the “family” extended throughout the country. It is one of few places in the world where you feel completely in synch with everything and everyone around you. Driving on the newly repaved roads that are now prevalent in Costa Rica was a goal of the newly elected president and the massive job was completed quickly. This is a big advantage for tourists, since the country has previously been notorious for their terrible roads. That is not an issue now (except in Monteverde) and on the way to the idyllic Central Pacific coast and Manuel Antonio National Park, there are many curves, one-lane bridges and spectacular views. Stop at the Crocodile Bridge, where you will see many 15 foot long crocodiles lazing in the sun waiting for tourists to throw them food. You will want to stop in Jaco for lunch overlooking the ocean and to pet the oddly healthy-looking stray dogs that wander happily around the beaches there. Nearby Hermosa Beach is a surfer’s paradise with world class waves. Surfers from around the world flock here to party and surf. The nightlife is varied and can get pretty wild so if that is what you are looking for, this is the place to find it. Soon you will arrive in Quepos and get your first glimpse of Manuel Antonio National Park. A coastal town celebrated for its world-class sport fishing, Quepos is the gateway to the pristine beaches of Manuel Antonio. The town is filled with restaurants, bars and art galleries, and hosts a lively outdoor market on Saturdays. There is no shortage of tour companies, which offer everything from canopy tours to horseback trips. Several sport fishing outfits in town provide both inshore and offshore excursions. Sailfish are caught year-round, while marlin, yellowfin tuna and mahi-mahi are common as well. Just four miles south of Quepos are the beaches and national park of Manuel Antonio.
Sitting under a very old tree on the beach in Manuel Antonio, I heard people shouting and pointing above my head. I glanced up to see one of the (thousands) of adorable white-faced capuchin monkeys sitting less than a foot above my shoulder and I convinced myself that I was the monkey whisperer. I did talk and sing to it (seriously) to keep him there long enough for all of the gawkers to get the close- up pictures they really wanted. We took a fascinating mangrove tour and our guide at Manuel Antonio must have been a hawk in a former life. We couldn't believe how he could spot such tiny, camouflaged animals of all kinds throughout our 3-hour tour. It really was amazing so our tour was packed with cool sightings; sloths and monkeys and Jesus lizards, oh my! Also tiny rainbow-colored grasshoppers high up in a tree (impossible to see with the naked eye-still not sure how he saw those). He helped us take beautifully magnified photos of over a dozen interesting species on the tour. Our next few nights were spent in Arenal at the magnificent Kioro Hotel. All are suites with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Arenal Volcano. It was humbling to be so close to an active volcano, seeing the little white bursts of smoke every few minutes and at night watching the lava flow down the sides of the volcano. It was breathtaking.
We took advantage of the Kioro Hotel’s private hot springs and also went to Tabacon, the first hot springs resort open to the public in this area. It is all natural, and water flows by gravity throughout the large property, forming in-river pools, waterfalls, and cascades and filling in the pools throughout the resort. Tabacon Hot Springs places a big emphasis on experiencing a close encounter with nature and it works. After spending some time in the healing mineral springs, you walk away feeling like you just had the best massage of your life. I sit often now in one of the two mahogany and leather rocking chairs I had shipped home from Costa Rica, a cool drink on the intricate inlaid wood table I also brought home. I am often amazed at how the power of this little piece of the world has affected my outlook on life. The Costa Rican locals use the phrase "pura vida" to mean "life is good" and translated it means "pure life". The beauty of the coast, the kindness of the locals, the open and adventurous spirit of fellow travelers, and the mystical effect of nature have taught me the meaning of "pura vida". Traveling, the ocean, new cultures, relaxation…to me that is pure life at its best.
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Hikers are likely to see white-faced monkeys, black spiny iguanas, coatimundis (sort of a cute raccoon) and a variety of song birds. Two and three-toed sloths are also abundant and you can see them high up in the trees. The beaches inside Manuel Antonio National Park are some of the most beautiful in Costa Rica. Beach lovers can laze the day away, enjoying the gentle breezes and shady patches along the shore. The winding road between Quepos and Manuel Antonio is lined with all kinds of hotels and restaurants, many with fantastic ocean views.
After a horseback ride from the base of the volcano to the canopy lines (my horse was named Carolina and yes I sang to her too, which the guides all thought was hilarious) we took 9 sets of zip lines back to the base. Nothing is more freeing than stepping off of a tiny wood platform (against all of your instincts) to zoom hundreds of feet above the forest with the volcano and the lake spread all around you. After that, you know you can do anything. 