AN
EDUCATIONAL EXPERIENCE IN VIETNAM
by George Trumbull 4/30/03
Trying
to condense the most rewarding and educational experience Jan and I
have been blessed with, into this capsule summary for a web page is
like trying to cram whale blubber into a sardine can. But since Jan
and the writer have always had the highest regard for Joy and Tom---"Don't
leave home without them"---we will try.
I realize
that one should never sell on the "negative" but this in NOT
the time to travel to Vietnam or, for that matter, anywhere in Southeast
Asia. The SARS scare and the fact that many Vietnamese yet today harbor
a hatred of Americas for causing what they refer to as "the American
war" and not the Vietnam War as we shamefully describe it.
When
you are able to travel, we suggest splitting your trip into three segments:
(1) Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon); (2) Hanoi and particularly Ha
Long Bay; and (3) Central Highlands, particularly Hue and Da Nang. The
book says the autumn and spring are the most suitable for traveling
in Vietnam. It was hot in HCM City in March but bearable. Hanoi was
slightly less humid but we did see our first rain.
Jan
was on a teaching assignment for Michigan State University (College
of Education) so our base in the South was Cantho University south of
HCM City. Be apprised that we taxied everywhere, even for our 5 a.m.
exercise. Walking was a ticket to suicide as was riding motorbikes,
the principal mode of transportation.
What
to visit in the South: 1) Ho Chi Minh City (huge, 5 million, go-go-go
pace, and polluted by the crazy unregulated traffic). 2) In the morning
charter a canoe-like boat and visit the Floating Market (suggest a guide
for this and most attractions) Eat at our favorite eatery (don't show
me a bowl of rice again!) the Nam Bo, beneath the majestic silver statue
of "Uncle Ho" and be amazed at the age and infirmities of
the panhandling beggars. 3) The Reunification Place but be tolerant
because the film you'll watch calls us "American lackeys."
4) Have tissues and visit the morbid War Museum 5) Pray at Norte Dame
Cathedral and marvel at those worshipers who remain outside on their
bikes. 6) Have taxi stop in front of monument to Buddists who torched
themselves because they didn't like America. 7) Look carefully for well-hidden
statue of Vietnamese mother cradling her dead infant killed by B 52
bombs. 8) Stand at a busy intersection with plenty of film and see for
yourself the craziness we saw 9) Pray and enjoy.
What
to do in Hanoi: First, fly by Vietnam Airways to this capital of
Vietnam. The travel booklet identifies Hanoi as "famous for its
charm and peace." Less humid and two million fewer people. Our
hotel was the Heritage. It's no Somerset but walk through Hoan Kiem
Shopping District. 1) Hire guide, driver and new car for 3-hour drive
to Ha Long Bay 2) Visit the Hong Ngoc Humanity Center where your hearts
will bleed with compassion for the deaf, mute and orphans doing embroidery
and wood carvings. 3) Charter the 87-foot Mien Bo 4) Dock and visit
the Magnificent Caves 5) Traverse the lake and be sure to pull aside
one of the many house fishing boats which is also the school for those
youngsters living on the boats. 6) Arrange for guide and driver to visit
Muong Village and tell those charming people "hello" from
Jan and George.
Tips
from Jan and George